Every experienced bonsai enthusiast has his/her own personal
idea of what bonsai is to them and what defining factors
make them aesthetically appealing.
"Don't be drawn into the trap of taking everything that
this person says as gospel!"
This applies especially if you are using a book as a reference when you are situated in a
different part of the world from where it was written.
If a beginner is unable to have the experience of being
taught the important principles of bonsai by an expert, he
must obtain as much material on bonsai as possible - whether
this may be just pictures of trees, discussions on the
different styling processes involved or lists of suitable
species to use. This mass of information will familiarise
them to bonsai and help them gain experience by experimenting on
cheap bonsai material. Frequently going to bonsai nurseries and
bonsai shows will also allow the beginner to see true bonsai in
real life from all sides, opposed to the usual 2D format.
This will enable the beginner to see the way bonsai
should be displayed and what the end result will be like
The two basic styles of bonsai are the classic (koten) and the informal or
'comic' (bunjin). In the former, the trunk of the tree is wider at the base and
tapers off towards the top; it is just the opposite in the 'bunjin', a style more
difficult to master.
Over the years, bonsai enthusiasts have frequently tried to reclassify the
styles, and their many sub-divisions into which plants can be trained. Once
you understand the principles behind these designs/styles, you will have a
reference point from which to assess a tree's potential for bonsai and to
decide what style suits it.
If you study very carefully the way trees grow in nature, it is possible to
design a realistic bonsai without knowing the names of these styles. You do
not need to stick strictly to the precise rules of your chosen style:
adapt them to suit a plant's natural habitat.
When you start a bonsai, always remember that you are working with a living
plant. Look carefully at its natural characteristics and you may discern
within them a suitable style, or styles. All conifers are reasonably unsuitable
to the 'broom' style, for example, but are very suitable for all other styles,
especially formal and informal upright - to which they are particularly
suited. Often you can train a plant into several styles, even if it is
basically upright like a beech or elegantly slender like a maple. Even if
one style only really suits a particular plant, you still can interpret
this in many different ways.
Shrubs like azaleas that are not tree-like in nature have fewer restrictions
in the style you choose, but, generally, it is best to base any design on the
way a tree grows in nature. People that are still learning the basic principles
of bonsai should not try to train a bonsai into a style totally unlike a
tree's natural growth pattern, although this is quite possible as you
gain more experience.
The Five Main, Commonly Used styles :
The five basic bonsai styles are formal upright, informal upright,
slanting or windswept, semi-cascade and cascade. All have their own
individual beauty and serenity. I will now attempt to explain the basic
principles of each style.
Formal Upright Informal Upright
Slanting Style Cascade Semi-Cascade
Formal Upright...
A tree with a style such as Formal Upright occurs when it has grown in the
open under perfect conditions. The most important requirement for this style
is that the trunk should be perfectly straight, tapering naturally and evenly
from base to apex. The branches should be symmetrically spaced so that they
are balanced when viewed from any direction. It is quite a demanding style
to achieve.
Recommended Species : Larches, Junipers, Pines and Spruces are all
suitable species. Maples can also be used, but are not as easy to train
into such a conformist style. Above all, fruiting or naturally informal trees
are not suitable for formal upright
Processes/Techniques Used :
To achieve an effective formal upright, make sure that about one third of the trunk is
visible from the front, either from the base to the first branch or
cumulatively, as seen through the tracery of its branches. Generally, the
placement of branches follows a pattern. The first branch up from the bottom
is the longest and in proportion usually is trained to grow to an equivalent
to a third of the total height of the tree. This is the 'heaviest' branch
almost making a right angle to the trunk. The second branch directly opposes
the first branch and is higher on the trunk. As the branch structure
ascends, they taper assuming a somewhat cone-like form. The top of the bonsai
is usually very thick with foliage - so full and tightly ramified that it is
difficult to see its internal structure through the mass of leaves or needles.
The tip of this style of bonsai also has a slight curve, to lean forward
and effectively 'look at the viewer'. Depending on
what species of tree you are using, the whole tree does not have to
be symmetrical but rather the branches could ascend by alternating on each side.
(I personally prefer this, as the former seems too regimented.)
As mentioned earlier, the branches and trunk of a formal upright bonsai always
take on a very distinctive taper. This is achieved by cruelly cutting off the growing
tip of the trunk or branch with each new year and wiring a new branch into position to
form the apex. This is something quite hard to do, however it produces
a stunning result when the trunk starts to mature and the taper starts
becoming prominent.
Informal Upright...
In nature, such trees bend or alter their direction away from wind or shade
other trees or buildings, or towards light. In an informal upright bonsai the
trunk should slightly bend to the right or left - but never towards the
viewer. (This applies to all types of bonsai. Neither the trunk or branches
should be pointing towards the viewer when the bonsai is viewed from the
front.)
Recommended Species : Most species of plants are suitable for this
style, mainly the Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum), Trident Maple (Acer
buergerianum), Beech, practically all Conifers and other ornamental trees such as
the Crab Apple, Cotoneaster and Pomegranite
Processes/Techniques Used :
An informal upright bonsai basically uses the same principles of the formal upright
bonsai only that it is informal. The style still requires a tapered
trunk, however the trunk direction and branch positioning is more informal and
closer to the way a tree would look when exposed to the elements at an early age. The
trunk usually takes on an unexpected curve or series of twists and the branches are
thus positioned to balance this effect. As with formal upright, the crown of the tree
is mainly very full with foliage and despite the informal trunk, is most always located directly above
the base of the tree. (This is an attribute of the informal upright style, if not done like this, the tree would be slanting.)
Jin (carved remains of dead or unwanted branches to look like dead and rotting
limbs of a tree - explained in 'Techniques 2') is also more appropriate and
effective with the informal upright style
Slanting...
Trees that slant naturally occur a result of buffeting winds or deep shade
during early development. Whether curved or straight, the whole trunk leans
at a definite angle. The stronger roots grow out on the side, away from the
angle of the trunk lean, to support the weight.
Recommended Species : Most species are suitable for this style, as the
style does bear similarity to informal upright. Conifers work particularly
well
Processes/Techniques Used :
As mentioned before, this style does bear similarity to
informal upright. The trunk can be either curved or straight, but must be
on an angle to either the right or left (never to the front), with the
apex not directly over the base of the bonsai.
This style is quite a simple one that can be achieved by many methods.
At an early age, the bonsai can be trained to an angle by means of
wiring the trunk until it is in position. Alternatively, the tree can
be forced to grow in a slanted style by putting the actual pot on a slant
causing the tree to grow abnormally.
With formal upright, informal upright and slanted styles, the number
three is significant. The lowest branches are grouped in threes, and
this grouping begins one-third of the way up the trunk. The bottom-most
three branches almost encircle the trunk, with two branches thrusting forward,
one slightly higher than the other. The third branch, emanating from
a point between the first two, is set at such an angle as to make the
foliage appear lower than the other two. This pattern presents an easy way to tell front
from back and sets the tone of the entire composition.
Cascade...
The growing tip of a Cascade bonsai reaches below the base of a container.
The trunk has a natural taper and gives the impression of the forces of nature
pulling against the forces of gravity. Branches appear to be seeking the light.
The winding main trunk is reminiscent of a stream meandering down the side of
a mountain.
Recommended Species : Many species are suitable, if they are not
strongly upright.
Processes/Techniques Used :
If done right, this style of bonsai can be quite aesthetically pleasing. The trunk
which is tapered, grows down below the container and gives the impression of the
tree being forced down by the forces of gravity. The tree trunk usually also twists as if
to emulate a meandering stream with elegant alternating branches protruding from it.
All that is required to create this style is a tall, narrow pot which will enhance the style and accommodate
the cascade and a species of plant that will willingly adopt this style if trained. The main trunk should
be wired to spill over and down the edge of the pot, with the main focus on the major bend (forming an upside-down U shape).
Emphasis should also be kept on keeping the branches uniform and horizontal to the almost directly vertical trunk.
Another major aspect to remember is that both cascade and
semi-cascade should be positioned right into the center
of the pot, the opposite to what you would do for any
other styles.
Semi-Cascade...
The tip of a Semi-Cascade, like the cascade, projects over the rim of the
container, but does not drop below its base. The style occurs in nature when
trees grow on clifs or overhang water. The angle of the trunk in this bonsai
is not precise, as long as the effect is strongly horizontal, even if the
plant grows well below the level of the pot rim. Any exposed roots should
balance the trunk.
Recommended Species : Many species are suitable, except strongly
upright ones. Flowering cherrys, cedars and junipers work well.
Processes/Techniques Used :
As the name suggests, a semi-cascade is basically the same as a cascade - involving the same principles, however the tree
(growing tip) does not drop below the base of the bonsai pot. Many semi-cascade do not even drop below the edge of the top of the pot. This style is
perfect for Junipers.
Back to Basic Styles
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